Revisiting Old Haunts 65 Years Later
Richard Middleton 1 Troop Cmdr. 1957
Thanks
to the marvels of satellites, it’s possible to discover how much the places I
used to know well have changed in the ensuing 65+ years. Malaysia has become a major tourist
destination, and so I was expecting a certain amount of urbanization, but even
so I was surprised.
Butterworth,
where our squadron was based, has changed beyond recognition[1]. The only familiar landmark is the former RAF
Butterworth airfield, which is probably now a Malaysian Air Force base. There is now a container port, and about 3 km
north of that is a jetty which I think may be what’s left of the old ferry
terminal where we used to wait in our Landrovers (almost overwhelmed by the
smell of drying fish!) to board the ferry to Penang (and where there was a Customs office, as Penang was a free port
and so in theory we had to pay duty on anything brought into mainland Malaya). The Hongkong and Shanghai Bank branch where I
used to get the squadron payroll was on the northwest side of a roundabout just
inland from that quay, and the squadron camp was possibly a mile or so to the
north, on the seashore.
The
southeast side of Penang island has been covered with houses and other development,
and I have no idea where our bomb disposal site at Sungei Dua was. What is labeled as the Pulau Jerejak jetty
seems to have old tile-roofed buildings, so might be the place where we used to
load the RAF pinnace prior to dumping bombs and torpedo warheads at sea, but I
can’t be sure. In 1957 I was told that
there were massive amounts of Japanese munitions still buried in tunnels and
other hiding places all over the southern end of the island (Swettenham pier was
a Japanese submarine base[2]),
so I hope these were removed by someone before the construction of the
international airport and other amenities!
When
we were building the Naka-Nami road we used to drive east from Alor Star
through Pokok Sena to Kampung Naka. That
road is now Route 175[3]. At Naka the road splits, with 175 heading
southwards and 125 crossing a small river (over which 1 Troop built Dors
bridge) and then going northeast. To the
southwest of the river bridge there is an open area with what seem to be
warehouses. This must be the site of our
tented camp, vehicle park and parade ground/sports field. Eventually 125 turns north to run parallel to
the Malay/Thailand border (which was the objective of our road, to provide a
means to move troops quickly to places along the border where the CTs were
infiltrating). But there is no Kampung
Nami along that alignment, so I don’t know the fate of that section of our
laterite road.
I
think I did find a solution to the “missing” Naka. On the 175 continuation, southeast of Naka
but still on the west side of the river[4]. is a village called “Kampung Nami Baru”, so
it was probably one of the “new villages” (“baru” means “new”) set up during
the Emergency, into which rural communities were moved so that they could not
shelter or provide supplies to the CTs.
My best guess is that our road did reach the original site of Nami (wherever
that was), and later formed at least the first part of 125, but that the
location around Nami proved too hard to control and a decision was taken to
relocate the community. That could have
been quite a long time after the squadron left
- Merdeka was in 1957, but
when I visited Malaya in 1979 one of my staff told me that there had been a CT
ambush of a police vehicle on the Kuala Lumpur-Malacca road (on which we were
driving!) only a few weeks before. So
terrorist activity continued for at least another 20 years after Merdeka,
although on a much-reduced scale.
[1] https://mapcarta.com/Butterworth/Map Zoom in to find Butterworth or to scan the Sungei Dua area.
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